Day 3: Borrowdale to Grasmere

Leaving Borrowdale

Today was meant to be an easy walk; so don’t be fooled by the numbers in the daily stats below that suggest it was. On this walk it is more about gradient than altitude or distance. Steep gradient whether it is up or down, slows your pace considerably.

This is one of the days that I had multiple choices depending on how far, or how high I want to get during the day and considering what I have planned in the days ahead.

The slow walkers take the low ground, the adventurous take the high ground, and both rest up in Grasmere.

The fast and furious take the low ground and push through the village of Grasmere and again take the low ground onto the next leg to Patterdale, making it a long 28km day.

At this point I should clarify exactly what low ground is.

The valley of Borrowdale sits at 90m above sea level; the trail leaving Rosthwaite rises to 542m at the top of Lining Crag then drops back to 70m as it approaches Grasmere only to rise again to 590m at Grisedale Tarn before rolling down to Patterdale at 150m.

(For those of you reading this in Dunsborough the Naturaliste Lighthouse, on our biggest hill, sits at 108m above sea level.)

As you can see the low ground is not very low at all, and no easy stroll.

After an enjoyable meal and well rested at the Scafell, I was in fine fettle as I headed off out of the Borrowdale Valley along the picturesque Stonethwaite Beck.

Lining Crag

This was an easy climb over the first hour, passing sheep folds, streams and waterfalls under the shadow of Eagle Crag. 

At Greenup Gill, it’s them Vikings again, a gill is a stream, the trail begins a very steep rise leading the way to Lining Crag.

Steep rise! A Harrier Jump Jet ascends at a lesser rate.

The climb was hard but the views over Scafell Pike (the tallest mountain in England) and back to the sea were worth the effort I kept reminding myself.

It was only about 14C but humid and with no breeze the sweat poured from my brow.

This was a tough climb. I wonder where Roy is?

Once the Crag was reached it was across the fell top, dotted in bogs that at times were waist high.

Atop Lining Crag

Again the view was worth the effort, a 180-degree sweep of mountain after mountain.

The downward ascent along Greenup Gill was difficult, always looking for the optimum foot placement, leaning on walking poles to save the knees and side stepping the intermittent bogs.

After reaching the bottom of the Gill I was looking for a fence post and the twin cairns, at waypoint #34, pointing the way over to Far Easedale.

Here were three alternate trails. The high ground left over Helm Crag and the Lion and the Lamb, the other high route, on the right, over High Rise and the low route down Far Easedale Gill, all three trails leading to Grasmere.

In 2011 we took the high ground over Helm Crag and then rested up in Grasmere the following day. This time I wanted to enjoy the Easedale valley and the Easedale Gill that feeds into Grasmere.

Hoping to arrive early afternoon to do some sightseeing, it’s surprising how much you can see from a pub bench.

More importantly though I took the low route to ensure I was not too worn out, as, unlike last time, there will be no rest day tomorrow.

Low route is easy, right? Wrong. The descent from 540m was swift, too swift. This means steep and that means again Russian weightlifter.

This was a valley walk, where was the mention of pain in the guidebook?

Steep also means washed away underfoot, or more correctly a path of rubble, rocks ranging in sizes from clenched fist to half a fridge to. All randomly placed to cause the greatest discomfort. And then throw in the odd bog for some variety.

Both my little toes were on fire and the arthritis in my feet gave me the sense that my feet had been stretched over a rack.

As I stumbled down the gill-side the crystal clear water was calling for my feet.

So I stopped, I de-booted and de-socked and place both feet in the freezing water.

It felt like my ankles were in a vice. At least if you have pain you are alive, I thought.

I dried my feet with my hat and applied some toe jell bandage from my first aid kit, then donned the fresh pair of socks I keep on standby, followed by the original pair, then gingerly slid my feet into my boots.

Well none of that worked, so I hobbled off.

After 20 minutes or so there right in front of me was a stag, a big red deer. All the pain about my feet was forgotten.

I would suffer that again to see such a magnificent animal.

He caught sight of me and bolted for the high ground. I watched him climb effortlessly up the side of Tarn Crag.

What I would give for hoofs instead of toes.

Once he was out of my sight the pain returned.

Only about 3km to go, that’s about 3,500 steps, so in the end it will get better. An hour later I succumb to the pain and popped a couple of Panadol.

Once off the Gill the trail rounded some farms then joined the bitumen into the village.

Grasmere is one of the prettiest of all villages and the walk past the stone cottages with manicured gardens with oak, elm and birch trees and flowering rhododendrons was joyous.

Reaching the village I turned off my GPS and headed for the pharmacy, showing the lady a picture of my toe I asked for all that will fix it and some AA batteries.

She gave me some Compeed and Ibrufen, which she added must be taken with food. Is beer a food? I asked.

No.

So off to the pub, which happens to be my accommodation, the Red Lion, for some fish and chips and then a beer or two.

I was glad that day was over.

Daily Stats.

Distance             13.3km

Assent                877m

Descent              873m

Time out             5h 30m

Stopped              1h 26m

Moving average 3.3k per hour

Weather 8 to16, overcast and humid.