Day 12: Rest Day Richmond
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RICHMOND |
Staying at the Buck Hotel on Newbiggan, a
cobblestoned street just off the main market square in Richmond.
This town grew up alongside the Norman
built castle and its military stronghold in 1071 on land gifted to Rufus (the
Red) of Brittany by William the Conquerer as reward for his part in the victory
over King Harold in 1066. Down the road 3 miles lies Catterick Garrison
and home to the Catterick Garrison obviously. This is the British Army’s
largest training establishment with 20,000 acres of training land.Coming into Richmond yesterday I could here
the tak tak of gunfire coming up from the valley.
With at times more than 18,000 soldiers
stationed here it is not surprising to know that Richmond has over 20 pubs and
over 30 licensed premises in total.
And for once a town with more men’s clothes
stores than women’s.
In the town centre is a museum to the Green
Howards (Yorkshire Regiment), I went there in 2011 with Chris Campbell while
the girls shopped, the highlight, getting to dress up as soldiers at the end of
the tour. Still boys at heart. I didn’t go in today rather I wandered off
the market square to the war memorial and paid my respects.
They died that we shall live. And walk and
drink ale and be free, never forget.
Heading back to the square I spotted Esquire
Men’s Design, and there I sat on the mock leather couch, at this high-end
fashion establishment, a barbers shop.Something I haven’t done for quite a while,
feeling a bit silly with the flowing locks I have swaying in the draft from the
doorway. But this was a hair design shop, too good to pass up. My turn in the big chair; just give it a trim
so it stands on end I ask and no smart arse comments.Discussing the newly refurbished décor I
could only marvel at the choice of faux brick and plastered walls painted in
“elephant breath” giving the place a savanna feel.
Three minutes and £5 pound later I stepped
onto the street a new man my hair unbent against the breeze.Three doors up I just couldn’t walk past
Thomas the Baker and I nipped in for a Danish. The air was fresh and the sky a little
overcast as I circumnavigated the town-square, checking the hiking stores and
hunting apparel store complete with shotguns and then I saw The Noted Pie Shop.What better to follow a Danish than a meat
pie. I made my way down from the castle to The
Station, once a train station now a café and art gallery with shops selling
local produce.They serve the mega cappuccino here and I
order one to accompany my jam scone.It’s nice just wandering, nowhere to be, at
no particular time.
So as I left The Station I headed down to
the Swaledale River and followed her bank on the other side of the castle wall
and looked up at this giant rising from the already steep riverbank.
As you walk around the town the castle-keep
rises from the hill reminding all who is in charge and what it would take to
gain control.
Quite a lot I thought. In the game of chess the castle, or rook as
it is called, is the second most invaluable piece but to be fair it should have
more pull.
Far more effective in a siege, than a knight or a bishop.
I headed back to The Buck for some rest and
that 52inch flat screen TV. Tomorrow I am meeting my cousin, Jane, off
the bus at 9:33, we are walking to Danby Wiske together. My last day on flat
ground.
After which it is onto the moors. Make sure
you stay on the path.
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